Is there anybody out there…

Voor die rare lui, die ondanks dat er hier al lang niks meer gebeurt, toch nog een kijkje nemen op deze site:

Ik weet het, hij doet het niet meer. Geen mooie fotootjes meer, alleen maar niet werkende links. Er wordt aan gesleuteld, en een nieuw pak mag hij ook aandoen, want het ziet er al te lang hetzelfde uit. Even gedulden hoort er helaas bij. In de tussentijd is er nieuws dat ik de 161 maart in Nederland ben en bij de Bergsportdag in Nieuwegein een lezing zal geven over…. Jorg. Yep, ik moest ook even slikken toen me gevraagd werd om drie kwarier over mezelf te praten. Het is toch veel leuker om iets te vertellen over een belevenis of een klimtrip ofzo? Dat ga ik dus ook doen. Ik zal wat vertellen en laten zien over het halve jaar dat ik door de USA ben gereisd, mijn trip vorig jaar naar Yosemite, mijn toekomstplannen, ik maak er maar gewoon een Tuttifrutti van, en hoop dat het men bevalt (en dat er natuurlijk iemand komt luisteren). Dus kom naar Nieuwegein volgende week zondag, en ga om half 12 in zaal 16 zitten! Bovendien is na mij een lezing die gegarandeerd gaat bevallen, namelijk van onze zuiderbuurman Sean Villenueva, over niets anders als vette Bigwalls :)

Seychelles

Where is a better place to avoid the incoming winter then in the middle of the Indian ocean? Warm, sandy beaches, turquoise water and cocktails with little strawheads ;) That’s right: Seychelles. These islands truly are paradise on earth, and the best thing is: Some of the beaches are covered with smooth granite boulders!

I had been 7 years already since Katha and I enjoyed a non-climbing-holiday for the last time, so I organized a surprise holiday for her. After pitstops in Italy and Ethiopia, Katha still didn’t know where we were heading, only up to the point of landing, where the pilot wished us (and the rest of the almost empty airplane) an enjoyable stay on the Seychelles. So we spent two weeks chilling, or rather grilling, on different beaches every day, snorkeled along with seaturtles, ate lots of fish (me) and coconuts (katha), got sunburned like english folks, tried to climb a mountain in 30°C and 100% humidity along with zillions of mosquitos, in short: Had a great time…

Oh, and even on a non climbing holiday I couldn’t let the chalkbag and climbing shoes at home now could I? So one morning we couldn’t resist the incredible features these rocks have to offer, and did some bouldering :)

Yosemite: El Capitan

IMG_8698 (500x333)My Yosemite trip is coming to an end, or it has already since the park is closed for about a week now due tot the US government shutdown.
I can’t complain though, since I was able to do a whole bunch of climbs, from very relaxed and enjoyable to incredibly adventurous and horribly exhausting.

Continue reading Yosemite: El Capitan

Yosemite!!!

A dream come true, I’ve climbed El Capitan. Once within a day on the ultra classic ‘Nose’, and once free on ‘El Nino’ 5.13c (8a+) in 3 days. The ‘Big Stone’ is truely amazing and I can’t wait to get back on it. I’ve been in Yosemite for almost two weeks now, and I have about the same amount of time left. Next up is a bit of schooling into aid climbing, and then if everything works out another free blast on the other side of the Captain.
Thanks to my buddies Max and ‘no pants Ben’ for a great time out there!

Alpine adventure…

Zillertaler Hauptkamm from jorg verhoeven on Vimeo.

For those who haven’t seen it on the web before (Facebook, Planetmountain), here’s the video of my traverse of the ‘Zillertaler Hauptkamm’ I did the week after the European Championships in July. This pure ridge traverse is around 50 km long and covers some spicy terrain up to fifth class climbing, mostly remaining on rock without touching the shallow glaciers beneath too often. I spent 7 days to complete this ridge, out of which one restday on the sole hut, the Schwarzensteinhütte (2900m).

People have continuously asked me for my motivation, and I keep answering I just needed a change. I’ve been pondering on this project for a while now, and after the Euro Champs in Chamonix, where I ended up with a surprising 3d place, I decided to call it good for this season’s lead comps, and give the mountains a go.

After a total of 60+ hours of hiking/scrambling/climbing with a 15 kilo backpack I was truely destroyed and took a week recovering. Now I’ve restarted my boulder training for the last 4 comps of the season: WC Munich, Euro Champs Eindhoven, Arco Rockmaster and Adidas Rockstars Stuttgart.

Bouldering comps

pic by H. Wilhelm

pic by H. Wilhelm

Ten Years of lead worldcup climbing is quite a long time, and the last few seasons it’s gotten harder and harder for me to find the motivation for a good preparation. Most climbers of ‘my generation’ have already quit competition climbing, and being called ‘The oldie’ all the time proved even more that a change was asked for. Since I still enjoy competitions in general, and since my speed climbing abilities haven’t improved, I’ve decided to switch to bouldering.
This year’s season started off in April already, so that didn’t leave me a lot of time recovering from the last season, which ended in November. Five comps have taken place already, out of which I could reach the finals twice and the podium once. There’s two comps coming up very soon in North America, and the season will finish of with the last cup Munich and the Euro Championships nowhere else than in the Netherlands!

Continue reading Bouldering comps

Ticino – finale

Ticino – Part 2 from jorg verhoeven on Vimeo.

With the second part, and the last that is, there goes my friday afternoon… I now realize how lazy we actually were getting footage during our trip, but in the psyche of the moment it never comes to mind to set up a tripod. Hence the video has become nothing special, I’ll try to work on similar future projects. The opposite is to be said for getting good photos, especially thanks to Reini Fichtinger and Stefan Kürzi. Here a couple of appetizers:

Ticino – Continued

Ticino – Part 1 HD from jorg verhoeven on Vimeo.

Our two week trip to Switzerland’s bouldering Mecca is over. A short bad weather spell left us with quite a bit of snow, but armed with broom and brush nothing could stop us from ticking a few projects on the last sunny days. After Katha setting the bar quite high with her flash of ‘Tricky’ 8A, I managed to rebound that by flashing the ultra classic ‘La Proue’ 8B…
Katha showed some more biceps on ‘Frank’s Wild Years’ 8A+ and the not to be underestimated classic ‘Arcadia sit’ 7C+, and I ticked off an old nemesis of mine: ‘The Dagger’ 8B/+. This problem has been in the media lately with quite a few ascents, and a proposed lower grade (not only by climbers but internet voices as well…), I still found it hard, especially to figure out a beta that suited me.

The video I’ve posted above is the first of two parts, and as you will see, we still have some problems filming with our new lens :)

Ticino

IMG_8138 (500x333)Katha and I have been in Ticino for a bit more than a week now, and have had both splendid weather in the beginning of our trip, and a couple of snowy days just now. We’ve got another week left, and it looks like it’ll be sunny, so our efforts to clean the boulders from snow were not in vain.
Conditions have been nearly perfect before, which resulted in a lot of hard problems for the both of us, e.g. Katha flashing ‘Tricky’ 8A, and some 8B boulders for me, one of which a FA.
I was a bit sceptic about coming here for a longer period (it’s only 4 hours from home), but I couldn’t be more motivated, if only those 10 cm of snow would melt…
I’ll keep up to date with some pictures and some not so professional video footage.

2012 – 2013

Jorg8 (500x334)

Another year has gone by, and like I previously wrote 2012 was climbing wise not much different from the years before. I did a lot of competitions, a bit too many, but I only realized this towards the end of the season. I travelled even more, with an all-time-record of 14 inter-continental flights, hence a lot of jetlags and a Star Alliance Frequent Traveller status…
All those competitions stole most of my time to climb outside, and I will definitely change this in 2013. I’m catching up with my studies again, which is far from easy when you miss 50% of the courses, but I’m quite used to this, and so are my professors.
After a two week trip to Spain around new year’s eve, which was exactly what I needed (nice weather and good rock) I’ve already started my training for the next season. I will mainly do bouldering, and fewer lead cups, since that means a summer and fall with time to do other stuff. It keeps surprising me how high my motivation is, especially since lately a lot of things actually tempt me to quit competition climbing for good. I really hope that this motivation will stay with me, since it’s the only thing that’s keeping me going… Continue reading 2012 – 2013