Esperanza

Katha doing 'Dark Age' V11

Katha and I have had a couple of good days in Hueco, both finishing some projects. I could do ‘Esperanza’ V14 (8b+), ‘Nagual’ V13 and ‘Land Before Time’ V13; Katha could send three V11′s in a day and wrapped it up with ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ v12 (8A+). Continue reading Esperanza

Huecool

Alma Blanca V13

As you were able to guess Katha and I are in Hueco Tanks now, where the climbing is as good as the weather. As soon as we got used to the almost perpetual background bombing of the nearby military base fighting the neighbouring missile range, as well as temperatures around 20 degrees Celsius and last but not least the ever so stupendous State Park rules for camping and climbing, we -almost- freely enjoyed the endless range of beautiful problems awaiting us. Continue reading Huecool

Desert Utah… National parks with the family…

Fisher Towers, Moab

From Bishop our next stop was… Vegas what else. We checked in the Stratosphere, a fancy hotel with a 350 meter high tower, including a small fun park on top, real Vegas style… Continue reading Desert Utah… National parks with the family…

The Buttermilker V13 (8B)

Like I promised, a video of me doing the sitstart of the Buttermilker and flashing one of Bishop’s finest boulders: Xavier’s roof. Continue reading The Buttermilker V13 (8B)

The Bishop spell is over…

All good things come in three, hence part 2 and 3 of our little ‘Bishop Highball’ saga. All went pretty well, no bad falls, so no wheelchairs :)

Continue reading The Bishop spell is over…

Newyear in Bishop

Like I previously wrote, Bishop offers some of the best highballs around, and of course I can never resist the temptation…

After doing ‘Evilution direct’ (8a) last year in 3 ground up attempts, I felt hesitant about its neighbour ‘Ambrosia’ (8a). It’s even higher and a fall from the last half of the boulder is not an option without wheelchairs imvolved, for me this didn’t sound like a lot of fun.

This year it hadn’t shrunk, but somehow I felt ready for it. The question remained: rope check out like the previous ascents or a clean ground up style?

Continue reading Newyear in Bishop

Bishop – Buttermilks

Mesothelioma V7

After a short stop at the Westcoast, visiting Santa Cruz and San Francisco, we could happily cross the Tioga pass (3400m…) and thus saved us some hours of driving to Bishop.

We’ve been here last year, when a five day snowstorm made normal bouldering nigh impossible, so it’s just so good to see this place in normal conditions. We didn’t have a drop of precipitation since the day I arrived in Boulder one month ago, but I shouldn’t say that out loud…

We’ve basically been running all over the place, and now we’ve set our minds on a couple of boulders we’d like to do. Some of them high, some hard and some a bit too high ;)

More Yosemite

Our last days in Yosemite were as cool as the first, but this time a lot colder. Temperatures dropped to -15C at night, and an early start is necessary for longer routes. Climbing 5.10 crack at -10C is hard… Continue reading More Yosemite

RRG vids part 2

Here’s the promised sequel on the videos we made in the reds.

50 words is a 5 star ‘easy’14c route I did on a perfect crispy and sunny day. It was used as a Petzl Rocktrip project in 2008 (?)

See more for a video of Katha doing some rad stuff…

Continue reading RRG vids part 2

Yosemite!!!

Half dome, in december...

The bad weather we had in the reds compromises the beautiful weather we’re having right now. After two days of driving from Boulder to Yosemite we arrived in a snowfree Valley, with the sun heating uo the giant faces.

We’ve been climbing non stop for five days now, so our feet and hands are battered. Incredibly enough, we’ve stood on top of Half Dome and El Cap with just a few patches of snow!

Continue reading Yosemite!!!