Flatanger, Nordic Flower, fish and mosquitos

Putting up Nordic Flower ~9a

The past week I’ve spent some time together with Reini Fichtinger in the norwegian region of Flatanger, north of Trondheim, where the coastal area offers lots of granit, with some enormous caves.

I must say, I never seen anything like this place before. The Americans would come up with a ‘Next Level something’, but all I can think of is the next level of astonishment…

I’ve put up a 70 meter extension of a project L.Laporte bolted last year called Nordic Flower, which is one of the most brilliant routes I’ve ever done. There’s two logical intermediate chaines, where there’s rests but no really comfy no hands. I’ve climbed it till the second chain, which offers already 55 meters of near roof climbing, on all natural fantastically shaped features and holds.

As before, I find it hard to come up with a grade, since I just have to little experience on hard routes. It seemed harder than Hades, the 9a I did a few weeks ago, so it would be cowardice to come up with anyting lower. It might as well be ‘only’ 8c+, but it sure felt pretty tough :)

I do hope that some people will try this soon (Magnus and Dani are on their way next month), cause it’s just so damn nice. Maybe someone is even psyched to try the full route, which offers 15 meters more, with a ~8a boulder at the lip of the roof… nothing goes underneath 9b in my opinion. Other (easier) exits wait to be bolted though ;)

Pics by S. Korosuo

Magnus Midtboe tried to convince me years ago to develop this area, where potential seemed to be endless, but only now we finally booked a flight, and dragged us and 80 kilos of luggage into the airplane. Handluggage just seems to be limitless ;)

After one night in Hell (Trondheim famous little crag, where everybody just goes for the name) we made the 3 hour drive to the Flatanger region, where besides fishermen nothing is going on.

We bolted some other routes in the cave (called Hanshallaren Grottan), and in the nearby crag called VVS (?) but left them as projects for the international climbers meeting planned next year. Like I said, we didn’t only want to consume, but also leave something behind for this meeting, where some norwegians are putting lots of energy in.
We also looked for other caves, and found a similar (a bit smaller) one 10 km away (1,5 hr drive…) where lots of stuff is possible, but it’s all so much work. There’ll be many more caves in the region, just awaiting for some very psyched bolters.

To give you an image of dimension these caves have: Around 150 m high, 400 m large and 100 to 150 m overhanging on all degrees. Santa linya is like a puppet theater against these things…

4 comments to Flatanger, Nordic Flower, fish and mosquitos

  • Hey man, Im from Brasil and we have a very similar cave, take a look: http://www.escaladabrasil.com/osite/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=88

    the point is new and have some rotes of 8b+ and projects of 8c…but there is potencial for new hard routes

    the gruta here in Brasil is 100m high and 300 meters large…with 50° overhanging

    so cool that this points are very similar

    hugs and sorry about my bad english, André Funari

    • Jorg

      wow, this really looks nice! similar rock, looks even more structured… Good luck on developing, one might I might drop by :)

  • Arlo

    Hoi Jorg,

    Tof om te lezen. Die afmetingen zijn echt gigantisch.
    Ik probeerde mij altijd al te bedenken en in te schatten hoe groot die grot was, maar dit is echt “huge”.
    Ik denk voor een hoop toppers weer uitdaging en motivatie voor jaren.
    gr.
    Arlo

  • PJ

    Great! Would be awesome with more and bigger pictures :D still, grats alot man, this thing motivates me to train as fuck :P

Leave a Reply

 

 

 

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>