Esperanza interlude

No we’re not back in hueco, although I do miss El Pasito, Krispy Kreme and the one dollar movie theaters. This is just a small post on the Esperanza video, that has become really oversized, because its producer didn’t think of flipping his Iphone :)

Mr Bryan Boyko – aka double B – is the man I’m talking about, famous for cruising through the hardest problems, but to fall at the easy topouts for many reasons like getting pumped, numbing out, forgetting beta, or a reason he sadly affected me with: victory blurr.

One day after brutally failing on ‘Terre de Sienne’ once more, we dragged our asses to the Martine cave, where to our surprise I sat down and stuck the bone move on Esperanza. Once more and then I sat down at the – quite weird but original – start of the problem, stuck the bone move again and got really confused, propr victory blurr, thanks double B. The last move made advantage of that to spit me off, but one try after that, this video was made, and in the weirdets of ways, I could do the last move, thus completing ‘Esperanza’ 8B+.

Completing I say, in spite of a slight dissatisfaction afterwards, when I found out that the topout only weighed in around V6, loose and a bit scary as it may be. In a previous post I wrote about bouldering topouts, and my opinion that it is always preferable to do one, even scary, dangerous, loose or wet ones, and since the start of Esperanza isn’t really logic in itself, the idea of course came up to do the whole thing, the Megarig as DG liked to name it. Well I tried, get fed up with it and failed, coming close, but to fall off the topjug again. ‘Megaranza’, which means ‘giant heap of shit’ in german is still to be climbed, I’ll have to come back for it.