Another year has gone by, and like I previously wrote 2012 was climbing wise not much different from the years before. I did a lot of competitions, a bit too many, but I only realized this towards the end of the season. I travelled even more, with an all-time-record of 14 inter-continental flights, hence a lot of jetlags and a Star Alliance Frequent Traveller status…
All those competitions stole most of my time to climb outside, and I will definitely change this in 2013. I’m catching up with my studies again, which is far from easy when you miss 50% of the courses, but I’m quite used to this, and so are my professors.
After a two week trip to Spain around new year’s eve, which was exactly what I needed (nice weather and good rock) I’ve already started my training for the next season. I will mainly do bouldering, and fewer lead cups, since that means a summer and fall with time to do other stuff. It keeps surprising me how high my motivation is, especially since lately a lot of things actually tempt me to quit competition climbing for good. I really hope that this motivation will stay with me, since it’s the only thing that’s keeping me going…
Before I start to rave over my future competition aspirations a quick word on Spain:
Together with Katha and a couple of other friends, I set off for Barcelona just before Christmas, realizing after a few days of climbing in the sun that it has been way too long I’ve come here. Spain in winter can simply be incredible. When at home everything is frozen you can be climbing in a t-shirt in Margalef. In spite of a slightly different ethic in using sika Spain offers loads of good quality routes at a high-end level, that are compared to the Alps super friendly in condition dependancy. I tried a lot of really hard stuff, but lacked the endurance to get past a certain border, somewhere around 8c/+. It has got to be so nice to come to these areas when fitness is at a normal level!
A friend of us came by to catch some stuff on camera for his incoming ‘Innsbrooklyn movie’. I think he will post some stuff on his website: Alpsolut. The movie must be coming out sometime this year. The capture picture is also his (H. Mair).
Like I said, I’ve started my boulder-training, which is in fact a little late, since the first cup is mid march already. The kickoff is in China, and is the only one I’m not sure of going. This will also depend on the plans of my federation, so I will know this later on. It strongly seems like I’ll be doing the worldcups on my own this year, different than the years before where I travelled and spent my time mostly with the Austrian team and a little with the Dutch team, but this probably won’t be possible anymore. I hope this will work out, since I hate travelling alone (especially far abroad), but I’ll give it my best shot.
Also training is not what I would like it to be. It sounds strange to me, but it feels like I’m getting old… Recovery is not what it used to be, and also my fingers don’t take as much strain as before. I’m injury free though, and that is a major change to a lot of the recent seaons. Funny is, that 5 years ago I could train as much as I wanted, but was often too tempted to go bolting some vegetated Zillertal slabs, and now I have no problem with spending a lot of time in the gym, but have to rest more often than I would prefer.
All in all I’m looking forward to a season that will not be easy to climb, but like I said: my motivation seems to be endless… Thumbs crossed.